SageandSilky is a modern crochet house. We design and publish crochet patterns — mostly amigurumi and small sculptural pieces — and sell a tight range of tools and supplies to make them with.

Our position is simple: THE NEW FACE OF MODERN CROCHET. Handmade. Iconic. Reimagined.

Always SageandSilky — one word, no ampersand. If you see an older spelling on a legacy file or listing, it's ours, just from before the rebrand.

No. Every pattern is designed, crocheted and written by human hands, then physically made at least once before it is published — that's the whole point of us.

Our philosophy is human-made crafts in an AI world. We use modern tools for layout and photography the same way any studio does, but the stitch work, the counts and the construction are made by a person with a hook.

MOD Nº is our collector numbering. Every released design gets a permanent number — MOD Nº 001, MOD Nº 002 and onward — printed on the cover.

Numbers are never reused, so a design's number is its identity for good. It also makes it easy to tell us exactly which pattern you're writing about.

Yes. A pattern is written from a piece that was actually crocheted, then re-worked from the written instructions to confirm the counts, rounds and finished dimensions match what's on the page.

If something still slips through, we want to know — see the errata question in the Support section.

In The Journal at sageandsilky.com/blog — technique breakdowns, troubleshooting, yarn notes and behind-the-scenes on new releases.

Patterns are digital, so there's nothing to wait for. As soon as payment clears:

• A download email is sent to the address used at checkout
• The file is on your order confirmation screen straight away
• If you have an account, it's saved under My Account → Downloads permanently

Work through this in order, it's almost always one of the first two:

1. Check spam, promotions and any filtered folder for mail from sageandsilky.com
2. Confirm the address you typed at checkout had no typo
3. Log in and open My Account → Downloads — the file sits there regardless of email
4. Still nothing? Email support@sageandsilky.com with your order number and we'll resend it manually

Add support@sageandsilky.com to your contacts before ordering and delivery emails stop landing in spam.

Yes. Purchases stay in your account library and can be downloaded again whenever you need them — new phone, wiped laptop, lost file, it doesn't matter.

Checked out as a guest? Email support@sageandsilky.com with your order number and we'll re-issue the link.

No — guest checkout works. But an account is worth the thirty seconds: your whole pattern library stays in one place, re-downloads are self-service, and checkout is faster next time.

All payment options available to you are shown on the checkout page before you confirm. Payments are processed by our payment providers — we never see or store your card details.

Log in, then My Account → Account details to change your name, email or password, and the Addresses tab for billing and shipping.

A print-ready PDF containing:

• Full materials list — yarn weight, colours, hook size, notions
• Finished size and gauge notes
• Every round written out with running stitch counts
• Step photographs of the real piece at the stages that matter
• Assembly and finishing instructions

Both. Our patterns ship in a US terms edition and a separate UK terms edition, each written properly in its own convention rather than machine-swapped — so a US single crochet reads as a UK double crochet, spellings follow the region, and nothing is ambiguous.

Our pattern releases come in six editions: English (US), English (UK), French, Spanish, German and Italian.

Each one uses that language's real crochet vocabulary — written the way a crocheter in that country would write it, not translated word-for-word. All stitch counts and numbers are identical across every edition.

Every PDF carries its own abbreviation key, but the common ones are:

• ch chain · sc single crochet · hdc half double crochet · dc double crochet
• sl st slip stitch · MR magic ring · BLO back loop only
• inc increase · dec decrease · rnd round · st(s) stitch(es)
• (12) at the end of a round = the stitch count you should have

Every listing states its level on the cover and the product page:

• Beginner — basic stitches, simple shaping, minimal assembly
• Easy — a couple of techniques past the basics
• Intermediate — colour changes, more shaping, more sewing
• Advanced — intricate construction and finishing

For amigurumi, not to the millimetre. Gauge changes the finished size, not whether the pattern works — a tighter hand gives a smaller, denser piece.

What does matter: stitches tight enough that no stuffing shows through. If yours are gappy, drop a hook size.

Yes — match the weight and you're fine. The listed yarn is what we used, not a requirement. Expect a slightly different finished size and drape with a substitute, which for amigurumi is rarely a problem.

Both. The layout is built for A4 and US Letter printing in black and white without losing legibility, and it reads cleanly on a tablet or phone screen for anyone who'd rather not print.

Where a technique genuinely needs to be seen rather than read, the PDF links to a walkthrough. The written instructions are always complete on their own — video is support, never a missing piece.

Yes — small-scale handmade selling is welcome, on these terms:

• You sell finished, handmade pieces only — never the pattern file
• Credit the design to SageandSilky in your listing
• Handmade by you, not mass-produced or factory-reproduced

Planning volume or wholesale? Write to support@sageandsilky.com and we'll sort a commercial licence.

• Share, resell, email, upload or repost the PDF — including "just for a friend"
• Republish the instructions, translate them or re-photograph the pages as your own
• Claim the design as yours, or use our photographs in your listings

The pattern is licensed to you personally. The finished object is yours; the instructions stay ours.

No — we design originals. Licensed characters belong to the companies that own them, and patterns built on them get pulled, along with the shops selling them.

So we build our own creatures and mechanics instead. You get a design that will still be on sale next year, and you can sell your makes from it without looking over your shoulder.

Each participant needs their own copy — one purchase does not license a room. Get in touch and we'll arrange group or teaching terms.

Patterns are digital — nothing ships, nothing to wait for. Our tools and supplies (hooks, yarn bowls, holders and similar) are physical and post to you.

Every listing states clearly whether it's a digital download or a shipped item before you buy.

Physical orders are dispatched after a short handling window, then transit time depends on your destination and the service chosen. The delivery estimate for your address is shown at checkout, and your dispatch email carries the tracking.

Yes, where the destination is served at checkout. Any customs duties, import taxes or handling fees charged by your country are the buyer's responsibility — they're set by your customs authority, not by us.

A dispatch email with tracking is sent when your order leaves. It's also under My Account → Orders.

Email support@sageandsilky.com with your order number and — for damage — a photo of the item and the packaging. We'll replace or refund it. You are not expected to absorb a courier's mistake.

Digital patterns are non-refundable once downloaded — the file can't be returned. That's standard for instant downloads and it's stated before you pay.

But we don't hide behind it. If the file won't open, arrives incomplete, or you were charged twice, contact us and we'll fix it or refund it. A problem on our side is our problem.

Unused physical items in original condition can be returned — start it by emailing returns@sageandsilky.com with your order number before sending anything back. Full conditions and the return window are on our Returns Policy page.

Write to support@sageandsilky.com quickly, before you download it. Honest mix-ups get sorted — usually by swapping you onto the pattern you actually wanted.

• Orders, downloads, pattern help — support@sageandsilky.com
• Returns — returns@sageandsilky.com

Include your order number and it gets resolved in one reply instead of three.

Yes. Send the pattern name and MOD Nº, the round you're on, your stitch count and a photo of the piece. A photo answers in seconds what a paragraph can't.

Tell us — pattern name, MOD Nº, page and round. If you're right we correct the file, publish the corrected version, and you re-download it free. Errata are fixed at the source, not patched in a comment thread.

Send it. Requests genuinely shape the release schedule — the ones we hear repeatedly get made. Original concepts only; see the licensed-characters answer above.

Please do. Tag @sageandsilky and use #MakeSomethingReal — finished makes from the community get reshared, and seeing the same pattern in someone else's colours is half the fun.

Our newsletter goes out first, then Instagram and Pinterest. The Journal at sageandsilky.com/blog carries the longer write-ups.

Yes — stockists, collaborations, testing and press all start at support@sageandsilky.com. Tell us what you have in mind and who you are.

Crochet builds fabric from yarn using a single hook, one loop at a time. Unlike knitting, only one stitch is ever live — which is exactly why mistakes are easy to undo.

Start with a simple shape in a light-coloured worsted yarn, where you can actually see your stitches.

No. Awkward for the first few hours, then it clicks. Most people finish something recognisable within their first week. Amigurumi is especially beginner-friendly because it runs on one stitch repeated.

• Crochet uses one hook; knitting uses two needles
• Crochet completes one stitch at a time; knitting holds a whole row live
• Mistakes are far easier to pull back and redo in crochet
• Crochet shapes in three dimensions naturally — which is why amigurumi is a crochet craft

• Hooks in the 3.5–5.5 mm range
• Worsted weight yarn (category 4), light colour to start
• Scissors, a tapestry needle, stitch markers, a tape measure
• Polyester fibrefill if you're heading for amigurumi

The Japanese craft of crocheting small stuffed figures. It's worked in continuous spiral rounds rather than joined rows, with deliberately tight stitches so the stuffing stays hidden and the piece holds its shape.

Go a size or two smaller than the yarn label suggests. The label is aimed at garments and drape; amigurumi wants dense fabric. Our patterns always name the hook we used.

Worsted weight acrylic or cotton. Acrylic is forgiving, cheap and comes in every colour; cotton gives crisper stitch definition and a firmer finish. Avoid fluffy or textured yarns until you're confident — you cannot see your stitches through the fuzz.

• Use polyester fibrefill, added in small pinches rather than clumps
• Firm enough to hold shape, not so hard the stitches stretch open
• Stuff as you go on long limbs — you can't reach in later
• Roll the piece in your palms as you work to even out lumps

Your fabric is too loose. Drop a hook size and work with a little more tension. Lining the inside with a scrap of fabric can rescue a piece already finished.

Only if you build them that way. Safety eyes and small sewn parts are choking hazards for under-threes — embroider the face instead, sew every limb down firmly, and use a washable yarn.

• Medium / worsted (4) — the workhorse; amigurumi, homeware, beginners
• Bulky (5) — fast projects, baskets, winter accessories
• Sport / fine (2) — miniatures, baby items, delicate detail

Cotton and wool breathe, block beautifully and feel premium. Acrylic is cheap, colourfast, machine-washable and hard-wearing — which is why it dominates amigurumi and anything a child will handle. Neither is "better"; they're built for different jobs.

Each pattern lists its yardage. As a rough guide, a small amigurumi runs 50–150 yards of worsted; a baby blanket runs 600–1,200.

Follow the yarn's ball band — it outranks any general advice. For stuffed pieces, hand wash in cool water and press the water out rather than wringing, then air dry fully shaped. Never tumble dry a stuffed figure.